Sunday, March 8, 2009

03.08.09 Arrived Jo'burg 3/4 - 9:55 pm local time



A few close friends were kind enough to to have a little soiree before I left. I just wanted to let them know I appreciated the send off! It's always so fun to fly with a hangover. Thanks guys, you can tell by my photo mission accomplished. I nearly missed my flight. It was all I could do to get my bum in the seat, pop my Ambien and I'm out for the count. Drool alert! Feel sorry for the person sitting next to me even though I did my best not to breathe on them.

- After a 26 hour flight from LAX and a killer hangover - I'm here!!! That's what my mind was saying getting off that plane. My 4 hour layover in Amsterdam was so welcomed, I couldn't wait to brush my teeth and try to look human. The entertaining part was I meet a couple guys from Ireland headed to Arusha destined to climb Kilimanjaro. They were quite friendly and did their best to talk me into joining them. I want you all to know that it took me all of four seconds to say "No Thank-you", I prefer to nauseate myself in more traditional ways like alcohol consumption, concussion, or a mild case of malaria, rather than subject myself to altitude sickness. I have a feeling my body will absorb enough other types of punishments during my two month stay, not looking for any additional Man vs Wild challenges. Yes JP, I have my competitive nature and big mouth in check, at least for now. Give me time, it will wear off. They offered to stay in touch and keep the invite open. I look forward to having a few beers with them before and after their climb!! I'll find others ways to spend $3K that I don't have.
I was so sad and heartsunk when I read the news of the NGO's expulsion from Darfur. I have to admit, for a moment I thought maybe there's another reason for me being here, knowing full well I have no credentials, authority, or political clout, only my diplomatic negotiation skills and charm. Would someone please get the Whitehouse on the phone for me?

The flight was only about an hour delayed, (incredible since most domestic flights have longer delays than that), which put me in to Jo'burg around 9:55pm local time. The plan was to check into a hotel with a soft comfy bed, catch some needed z's (my one last indulgence) and allow myself to get my bearings for a couple days before heading north. Originally, I was hoping there was a train route available to Zimbabwe, but I found out before the trip it hasn't been operational for sometime. No problem getting a cab from the airport to my hotel (located in what I was told is the safest part of town). Regardless, I was relieved after getting checked in, and relaxed by taking a long hot bath and climbing into bed. The next day, I was able to make connections with my adviser who was thrilled to hear I had made it. She would have a staff person from the placement (a Brit named David) pick me up on Friday at the airport in Dar es Salaam, yes one more flight, but a short one in comparison. For some reason I had the need to see Johannesburg, I may never return or have another chance to visit. so I'm making as big a swath as I can.
I won't bother to tell you about my exciting adventure with the immigration officers, who weren't quite so friendly and welcoming, but I will wait until I get my passport back first!
Thursday I ventured out keeping my wits about me. Johannesburg is much like any big city in the US, tall buildings, lots of traffic, and lots of people. People everywhere. Communication is fairly easy in this environment as my language curve is limited to hello; goodbye; how much; water; and bathroom, but I was glad to discover many could speak some English. I am told in the suburbs the only black faces you see are that of hired help, and I wonder if much has changed in the new South Africa. Friday, I made connections with David (my chaffeur from the UK who is actually a grant writer) at the Dar es Salaam airport. Picture him half Jack Black and half Tom (who's the guy that was married to Drew Barrymore for a couple weeks and eats mice?) anyway, he has a sense of humor that kept me laughing most of the drive. What a great way to start out. He's been in the country 5 months and plans on staying on till Dec. I'll know who to call if I start getting homesick and need a bit of cheer. My first impression of Dar, is how I was struck by the unfamiliar humidity. It is hot, humid, busy and noisy, with a lot of poverty. Dust, dirt, and dilapidation are prevalent but more surprisingly are how many people there are. People are everywhere!! From men seeking refugee under the shade of the trees, to brightly dressed women carrying baskets or bananas on their heads alongside the road, (reminds me of wanting to dress up as Carmen Miranda for Halloween), there were children patiently waiting by the metal bus stops, and women sweeping the dust on the road, there were boys selling everything from newspapers, to bottled water, to machets on every street corner, daladalas (minibuses) everywhere, overcrowded and shoved to the brim with people. The drive which really seemed to be a dodging game of sorts from potholes to the crazy daladalas that cut every which way in traffic, I was transfixed with my new surroundings, noises, and smells.
David gave me a snapshot of what my first week would be like, he referred to it as WTF:101 -Things NOT to do when in Rome; I'd be told not to carry anything of value because of the massive crime rate; no picture taken, cameras attract attention, and some of the people are offended by it, all the wonderful diseases I could potentially get, some with and some without cures; that the hike up Kilimanjaro is not a walk in the park; and please don't feed the animals. Oh yeah, he also said I"ll have first hand close up exposure to some nasty bugs and insects that were seem like they're on steriods. I told him I'm really big into walking sticks, praying mantes, and yellow garden spiders. I think I surprised him. Not to worry, he laughed, I'll see things that will cause nightmares for years. Oh yeah!
There are volunteers from all over, quite a global exchange, Canada, Uganda, India, Philippines, and Kenya as well as the UK, EU, and of course all the wonderful Tanzanians! I have met some really lovely friendly people from all over, a Fri/Sat night gathering is typical for the volunteers.
I'll try to post weekly, the connections are random, mainly dial up and super slow I'm told where I'll be. I'm not a webmaster by any sense of the word and html bullshit drives me insane. I didn't travel all this way to be tormented and frustrated by frickin code, so if the font size changes, the pictures aren't where they're suppose to be or upside down, well just consider the source, we all have to make adjustments! Love u all-al