Saturday, April 25, 2009

Last stop ....Zanzibar

Gleet, Glitz, or Sprawn? I was taught it was called glitz...those fine droplets that spray out of your mouth occasionally when you yawn or sometimes just when you open your mouth, one of those little wonders..."how'd I do that"? There's my focus for the next week, practicing and perfecting how far I can project my glitz on command. Sondra has a tiny slit between her front teeth and has been constantly showing off with her finesse spitting. Game on! We are definitely in kick back mode. Might have a little wind surfing contest too across a flooded cow pasture. Woo-hoo!!

View from the top of Zomba Plateau


Malawi was worthy of the extra two days and Vic Falls was incredible. I'm feelin rather spent and looking forward to just being horizontal for a day or two. Arrived safely here in Zanzibar, have a nice little room rented right off the beach and I couldn't have planned this better, the perfect location to end my journey. I'm in good company, Sondra, Chad and Samuel are here through the week. Sorry for the short note, I really am drained, but safe and sound and soon to be sleeping.
Love to all, al

Victoria Falls - (check that off)

From the bridge looking at the falls

Zambezi River and canyon below the falls

Captivated by the falls

Victoria Bridge

Saturday, April 18, 2009

4.18.09 This is Africa TIA

Kwaheri Watoto (Goodbye Children)

My last day at the placement was Friday. The kids made pictures and bracelets for me and we had cake and ice cream. That’s all I’m going to say about that, other than it was a hard day. Tonight is my last night in the volunteer house that I’m grown to love to curse for all it’s charm. Still there’s something about it that’s tranquil. I will miss the girls. Sondra is going on with me to explore, Kate is here for another 4 weeks and will be getting two new housemates.
After a difficult first week of transitioning to the cultural differences I am going to try to summarize some of the more lighthearted aspects of my strange life here in and how by week six is doesn’t feel so strange. My colleagues and I will often say "TIA" when we experience something funny about life here or if it's something particularly frustrating we will say "TIFA" - I'll let you figure out what that stands for. So here is my list of TIA moments thus far:

-Happy thought, If I never see ugali again I won't be disappointed, this coming from a person who could eat noodles everyday.
- Stopping to laugh in the midst of throwing an industrial sized bucket of water down my toilet at home because I realized how normal it had become for me to live without running water.
- Livestock... everywhere - all the time. Exotic and domestic!
- "Mzungu!!" At least 15 times a day.
- Africa time - waiting, sometimes for hours, sometimes with no information as to why or what for we are waiting
- Bananas at all meals. One day I had 6 in a 12 hour period.
- Bucket baths and the things we do to avoid them (standing in the rain, baby wipes and Oscar Blandi dry shampoo, thank you Sephora).
- Making peace with the spiders and lizards in your room because they eat mosquitoes.
- VISITOR BOOKS. I have signed my name and city of origin more times in the past month than I ever have in my life.
- "Bongo Flavors" - the name for local Tanzanian music.
-- Driving = no rules. Drive in the middle of the road, on the wrong side, in the ditch. Doesn't seem to matter as long as you get to your intended destination. I'm so thankful to be able to walk most places.
- Falling asleep to the sound of the hard rains. Coming home from work to cows mooing. Waking up to the roosters crowing.
- Greeting everyone, everywhere, all the time. It's amazing how many times and how many ways you can ask someone how they are and respond accordingly. My apologies if I get home and ask you how you are in 5 different ways.

In case you were starting to worry that I was completely miserable or struggling to get by here in Tanzania, have no fear for I have found the ultimate oasis, however it wasn’t until week 5 that I discovered it. Aly's salon and spa. Can you believe it? Yes, I have found the one place in Arusha where a mzungu can get a haircut, pedicure, manicure, massage and eyebrow threading, among other services, with impeccable service and skill for a fraction of the price one would pay in America.

I first discovered Aly's salon on a day I found out a little girl from the orphanage tested HIV positive. Working and living in a country were gender has revealed to me the grave inequalities that women in Tanzania, and I imagine other parts of Africa, must face everyday. The inequalities are so great that many women here regularly endure violence or live to avoid it, sometimes very brutal inhuman practices. It was probably a good thing that I didn’t get too involved with this age group, but I see it trickle down, and it’s hard to keep my emotions in check particularly in relation to HIV. Time and again we hear from women don't have the power to tell their husband or boyfriend to use a condom even if the man knows he is HIV positive or if the woman is sure he is sleeping with other women – it’s a part of their culture in the Maasai tribe a man has the right to sleep with any wife, and he takes many wives, for reasons other than sexual promiscuity but that’s the fallout. It's a crisis.

Anyway, Aly is a Tanzanian-born, Canadian-bred Indian man who is quite possibly one of the most hospitable people I have ever met. He has been running his salon for about 15 years and only advertises through word of mouth. He cuts hair and employs one woman who does manicures, pedicures, massages and waxing and another woman who does eyebrow-threading. I am not kidding when I say that I had the best manicure pedicure and massage of my life at Aly's. The pedicure was $8 and the massage was $15. For those of you who know me well, I am a fairly seasoned spa-goer. I've managed to get in three massages before I leave! aaaahhh.....heaven!!
So there you have it. The best kept secret in Arusha-

I’m sad to leave, but happy to have been here. Tomorrow’s another day and there’s something new waiting for me. I’m off to Malawi.
Love to all -
ali

Saturday, April 11, 2009

4.11.09 Music is my religion

Sisel - Tanzania grows a ton of stuff...a TON!

Northern Tanzi - Some serious beautiful going on

Market outside of Arusha

Me off the beaten trail

Lake Manyara Natl Park - Tanzi

Tea Plantation

Shurimoyo - Moshi - Typical rural school building

Market in Moshi

Arusha Park

Arusha Landscape

My wing man Julius - he and I are tight.

Beauty Salons pop up everywhere - It's so funny!

African Manicured Paradise

Sorry, I know it's been too long since I last wrote. I'm not sure where I left off, or where to pick up. The important thing to let you know; everything is GRAND here in the land of rain and green and smiles and muddy feet.
Here's me and my pals on a little hike to Moshi (10 miles), no hill for a climber! The guy on the right is Freddy, the new man in my life, (besides Julius), who showed us where to find a fabulous swimming hole and brews his own banana beer) I swear, whenever we're together my sides ache from laughing. I think he has a crush on me.

Mama, you'll be pleased to know I took in a Sunday church services last week. Knowing I wouldn't be around this weekend (cause I'm going camel riding), it was my offering to stay in your good graces, but also the service I took in was an event in itself, very entertaining, almost like a baptist revival. We arrived to a very large, airy hall and were clearly the only "mzungu" there. Let me tell you about the word mzungu. I've heard it an awful lot in the past 5 weeks. It means "white person" and the men especially have a penchant for calling out mzungu anytime I walk by. It's not exactly a compliment, but it's taken in stride. Even us volunteers have found ourselves referring to ourselves or other foreigners as mzungu. For example (and I am jumping ahead for a moment), we went out dancing at an outdoor club on Thursday night called Via Via (another going away partying, a person could stay drunk all the time here cause every other day it seems someone is leaving and a new person arrives). Anywaays, on Friday morning, one of the other volunteers who had not come out told me that she heard I'd been dancing like a "bongo" (local), not a mzungu, on Thursday night. I learned the shakey-shakey. It's a 'traditional dance' where you shake your shakey-shakey ba-donk-a-donk like its no tomorrow. I think we call it something else back home, 'bootie', very similar outcomes. Apparently the dance here is/was used for men to figure out who would be their wife/wives. Yes, wives. It happens here. Moving on....the ladies doing the shakey-shakey then proceed into the audience and pick out men to dance with, sound familar? Too bad there's no video, I was doing my best to keep up with the locals, shakey-shakey'ing my tushie in high gear (like I need any encouragement) especially after a few beers, sheesh, it was loads of pure clean fun, and they love learning new slang for hiney.
Back to church, sorry, I keep digressing, but seriously I have seen and experienced so much I could spends hours every night writing about it, it has been the ultimate frustration not to be able to share it on a daily basis! So I apologize that I seem to be going off on several tangents. The church service was in Swahili, but holy crickets, the choir was rocking! They filed in from the back dancing and belting out their tunes, and everyone in the audience clapped along with them. It was really cool. They were definitely the highlight, and sang every ten minutes or so throughout the 90 minute service. It was also fun to look at all the churchgoers in their Sunday best. Many loud hats and dresses.

One thing I've noticed in my short time here, this country seems to be overrun with missionaries, as if there's a race to see how many people one can convert to Christianity. Ummm??? Religion!

After wards, we walked around downtown for a little while. Arusha has a lively outdoor produce/housewares market, and lots of little shops and stalls with a random assortment of goods. Also lots of money exchange counters and tailors. There is one little building that I pass everytime I go downtown, called "The Computerized Zebra Eye Clinic". I have no idea what it is, but it always makes me laugh. I become an expert with dodging the frenetic rhythm of vehicles, pedestrians and the occasional goat or chicken.
Almost everyone makes some sort of greeting, unfortunately in any one of about 4 languages. KiSwahili is either 'Hujambo' to which I have to reply 'Sijambo', or, if they are being particularly polite, it will be Shikamoo, to which I have to reply Marahaba. In essence Shikamoo means something like, ‘I know I am only a worthless speck of dust before your great age and wisdom, but please don’t ignore me.’ The reply is roughly ‘Yes, I agree that you are only a worthless speck of dust before my great age and wisdom, but I will deign to notice you.’ The local language is Maasai. The greeting here follow a clear pattern: a) Habari b) Mzuri a) Ta Kwenya b) Eeko a) Soobeye b) Ebba (sorry, written phonetically). I think it means, How are you, fine, where are you going, work, where have you come from, home. A lot of people like to practice their English, so there are a lot of ‘Good Mornings’

In my six weeks here, I've grown accustomed to the smells, the sounds, and the sights of Africa. The poverty mixed with hope. The wealthy helping the poor. A community in which the gift of life and death is shared. People walking, selling their crops, people jumping in the back of a pick up truck of a stranger for a ride, people jumping vertical as high as my head, man those Maasai can grab some air, The mountains and the plains, the lush green rainforest, and red desert dirt and dust, the beauty and the ugliness, happiness and sorrow, the Maasai trying to hold on to their past, while carrying cell phones in their robes. The pursuit of education. Women trying to have a voice...and of course sickness: AIDS, Cholera, Malaria plus many more... Time, worries, priorities, everything different here than back home, not necessarily better, just different.
As beautiful as it is...it is a place I could enjoy because of the opportunities available to me. I try to put myself in these peoples shoes, but I can't...I try but I can't...
So instead I choose to see the beauty of this land because of its differences and the contrast... I am grateful. Nothing I write will do it any kind of justice. I may have wrote that before but it merits repeating.

This is my last week of working at the placement. It makes me sad to think about saying goodbye to the kids I've grown to love. It makes me happy to know I've made so many close bonds. Some of my friends have already left. I'm told by others this is always the hardest part. One more going away party-mine and I will be getting fully intoxicated come the weekend. After I recover I'm traveling to Lake Malawi with Sondra and some friends who already finished up with their volunteer work and waiting on me, so it's all about exploring now. Lake Malawi is suppose to be fabulous, we're planning on camping and then on to Victoria Falls. What a rush, can't wait to tell you about it, I've heard they have an awesome bungee from the bridge and an ultraglide you can rent. Best I can do, no taildragger to be found on the Serengeti. My last stop will be spent meditating on the beaches of Zanzibar and Pemba and doing some diving. At that point I anticipate losing all consciousness in a spiritual way and just decompressing.

Samuel and Chad are the Irish guys I met during my layover in Amsterdam (the ones trying to talk me into doing the Kili hike with them) We've become great chums, they're going to travel to Malawi with us.

Crazy Sondra - I could not do this! She's staying an extra three weeks just to hang out and head to Zanzibar with me.

Soon to be traveling companion Naomi (from Sydney) - appliances are just for looks around here - electricity is a joke - we laugh and make fire!


Happy Easter!!
I miss you and love you all,
-alana